The Goodie House Review
January 22, 1998
Finding the Post and Courier restaurant review for the Goodie House unearthed memories of small cafes and shiny diners with round leather barstools, familiar faces, and other nostalgia from back when Charleston’s culinary scene was more like a quiet front porch than a global performance stage.
The original Goodie House many will recall was in a humble cottage-like structure on Calhoun Street. Now a Starbucks, the building sees throngs of visitors and College of Charleston students every day. While the exterior of the building has remained the same, much around it has been built up, sighting the college’s new multi-level science and arts buildings, and the recent tagging by artist Shepard Fairey of the dormitory across the street.
But before all of that, the Goodie House served comfort food to regulars, some of whom stopped in on a daily basis. Despite the modesty of the Goodie House, the chili, burgers, and especially the pies were “legendary,” to quote Jane Kronsberg, who reviewed the reincarnation of the Goodie House in 1998 at its Ashley River Road location.
During her late dinner (they arrive 45 minutes prior to closing time), Kronsberg summoned the famous burger and the pie. The wait staff was forthcoming that the hamburger had been cooked earlier in the day and warmed up for the late night service. As one would imagine, it was not stellar. And the pie? It was nowhere to be found, as they do not make pies at the end of the day because they don’t keep well overnight.
In today’s world of critic reviews, 24-hour and instant social media postings, restaurants can easily be pressured into performing well beyond their means or original intentions to please a handful of occasional patrons. The performance by the Goodie House on the night of Kronsberg’s review might seem by today’s standards detrimental or even incendiary; however, might it simply be that the Goodie House wanted to be authentically portrayed—no matter who was sitting at the counter?
Near the end of the write up, Kronsberg noted, “All in all, things were just as I had expected.” And isn’t that the charm and draw of diners and neighborhood cafés? They remain the same, they stay true to their original recipes, no matter what chatter or changes are taking place around them.
We hope our readers will find a moment to enjoy a neighborhood café or old fashion diner for what it is and ask nothing more. Or better yet, become a regular somewhere and experience the joy of seeing familiar faces behind the counter each time you go.
Charleston is a burgeoning town with a food industry to match. The city experiences a steady inhale and exhale of residents and visitors alike pining to partake in this culinary metropolis and driving the need for diverse options to quell their hunger.
With this sentiment in mind, we searched through the old restaurant reviews from The Post and Courier. Among them we found the write up for Market East Bistro and were curious to uncover what types of establishments have occupied this location–14 North Market Street–over the years.
The review of Market East Bistro written by Jane Kronsberg ran on Thursday, February 13, 1997. This was Konsberg’s second review of the bistro since its opening, and she wrote fondly of her experience once again. The lunch and dinner selections highlighted the many seafood options available at this accessible but refined bistro. As one patron was quoted in the review, the food and service were good and the prices “extremely reasonable.”
After the closure of Market East Bistro, Vintage Restaurant and Wine Bar took over the spot. Owned by Kevin Kelley, who was also the wine director, the restaurant boasted hundreds of bottles to pair with Executive Chef Thomas Clayton’s Provencal-style cuisine. Contrary to many establishments in the neighborhood, Vintage did not showcase typical Lowcountry dishes, rather offering diners a taste of France.
Cordavi then took up residence at 14 N. Market. Turning the dial to fine dining, Cordavi became known as one of Charleston’s top restaurants in its opening year, earning Esquire magazine’s nod for Top 20 New Restaurants in 2006. The establishment was written about as a leader in sophisticated haute cuisine with the potential to launch Charleston onto the culinary scene with longtime cosmopolitan players. Described as a maverick in the local dining scene, Cordavi showcased cutting edge culinary arts and was unapologetically “un-Southern,” regularly calling international ingredients to the table. Perhaps with the same surprise invoked by its creative approach, Cordavi closed leaving many lamenting a too-short stay. Read more about Cordavi in the City Paper review by writer Jeff Allen.
Another 14 N. Market Street establishment was Gilligan’s Seafood Restaurant. Gilligan’s, a family-friendly casual spot, brought a fun and lively atmosphere to the historical market and served as great place for traveling groups to dine. The bar at Gilligan’s stayed open well into the night, hosting late-night revelers in search of an affordable good time.
And finally, Burwell’s Stone Fire Grill is the current resident of 14 N. Market Street. An expansive establishment, the owners exposed the hidden history of the space by removing drywall to reveal 1800s-era cypress walls, paying homage to Market Street’s rich past. Bringing a modern twist to the traditional steakhouse, Burwell’s uses a 1,400 degree wood-fire grill and is promising an experience divergent from the overly masculine characteristics common of steakhouses. Read more about Burwell’s in this write up in the City Paper.
Looking back on the many restaurants that once called 14 N. Market Street home, we see a wide spectrum of culinary approaches. And with the diversity of palates in Charleston, coming from world travelers, vacationing families, long-time locals, and new residents, we are sure there is a place for just as many restaurant styles, themes, and cuisines and look forward to what the future might bring.
Limehouse’s Quality Assurance program plays an integral part in our teams effort to ensure customers receive quality produce at competitive prices. Field monitoring is done weeks and days before harvest to keep abreast of supply and quality issues in the various growing regions. This diligent monitoring enables Limehouse to forecast supply volume and spot potential quality problems.
THE OUTLOOK LAST UPDATED: Tuesday, July 23, 2014
Weather patterns causing adverse growing conditions across the country will continue to impact yields and production from the various regions. A substantial warm up is forecast for Central California and the Salinas Valley into the weekend. In the San Joaquin Valley triple digit temperatures are expected with record highs possible into the weekend. Another factor to consider is the heavy rains and warm temperatures throughout the mid-West and Eastern regions impacting regional production.
Andrea Limehouse is glumly rifling the drooping leaves of locally grown broccoli rabe, boxed and ready
to transport from Limehouse Produce‘s North Charleston warehouse to a restaurant or supermarket
No matter how carefully growers tend their crops, vegetables are highly susceptible to heat damage after being picked, a problem that’s particularly pronounced in sunny South Carolina. Every summer, Limehouse sees the consequences of small-scale farmers failing to properly cool just-harvested produce.. “It’s a pity,” she says. “It was probably beautiful when it was picked.”
“We got some broccoli rabe, and it was 70 degrees inside,” she recalls. “People don’t think about how much heat is in it.”
To help area farmers avoid ceding their harvests’ value to heat, Lowcountry Local First and theClemson Sustainable Agriculture Program recently partnered on a post-harvest handling training program at Dirt Works Incubator Farm; the class was one of a series of daylong information sessions for new growers. The program included a field tour, cooling demonstrations and an overview of storage techniques.
While customers generally don’t flinch when organic produce is aesthetically flawed – “if it’s got a couple of holes in it, that means it’s organic, right?” WP Rawl‘s Matt Warren joked – wilted vegetables are a tough sell.
Warren advised participants to immediately ice their harvests or deposit them in wash tubs, and then hurry them into a cooler as quickly as possible.
“When you pull green onions, don’t throw them on the ground and size them that way,” he said, alluding to the food safety issues also raised by sloppy post-harvest practices.
According to Geoff Zehnder of Clemson University, an increasing number of small-scale farmers are pursuing wholesale contracts, which potentially offer more income stability than direct sales. “So when you talk about wholesale, quality comes up,” he says. “It’s a whole other thing you have to learn.”
Zehnder says many beginning farmers don’t realize they can construct an on-site cooler for the price of a home air-conditioning unit.
“You don’t have to spend multiple thousands of dollars,” he says. When handled correctly, “it’s amazing how much more shelf life you have.”